Words Steph WadeImages Maximilian Mair Films Jonas Bak Date 08 August 2024
For Ellie, there is beauty in cultural contrasts, a fact that is informed by her North African and Eastern European heritage, and the ways these two opposites bridge together in harmony. Ellie’s Jewish identity—both from the Ashkenazi diaspora (eastern European) and the Sephardic diaspora (Moroccan)—informs both her sense of self, and how and why she cooks. She has fond memories of the smell of chicken soup simmering on the stove, prepared by her Polish grandmother; at the same time, the cumin-spiced carrot recipe that her Moroccan aunty passed down to her mother, would be served alongside the fragrant soup—and the mix always worked.
“One of my most formative memories is of my grandmother’s and mother’s hands together in the same bowl, rolling out a mountain of matzo mixture into ball after ball, and with stacks of rings and bangles on their messy hands,” she shares proudly. “I was always so excited to come home from school and see one million dishes being prepared for the evening’s feast.” Cousins and aunties would lean over each other to pile spoonfuls onto their plates. “It was chaotic and perfect,” she laughs.
Ellie’s search for family traditions has led her to a more personal form of storytelling through food, while the menus she creates reflect her love of family and the Mediterranean. Nostalgia is at the center of her recently published cookbook Ellie’s Table; it is also felt in the food she makes during her pop-ups in restaurants across Europe. “At the end of a meal I want you to feel full and warm, slightly tipsy off good wine, and with sauce-stained clothes and unbuttoned jeans,” she says.
My first time in the city I felt an immediate connection to its rugged energy. The sea was salty, the sun was warm, and I really felt its close proximity to North Africa. ‘Mangal’ is the Arab word for grilling, and my North African Jewish ancestors would do this outdoors, cooking bits of offal and cumin-spiced lamb over hot flames. The food in Marseille is so well seasoned, and reminds me of these memories. I got the opportunity to cook right on the Mediterranean sea at Tuba Club. Fresh fish was brought in that day; I made dishes that my family make, but with a touch of seafood to suit the context of the space. It was a dream.
A big part of my practice is writing down recipes and stories that are connected to food traditions. I take a notebook wherever I go so that I can jot down people’s words and ideas. I also like to collect objects, spices, and other bits and pieces from around the place to bring back home and use as inspiration for menus and work. I love old fabric shops and typical ‘grandparent’ stores, with vintage things like underwear, tablecloths, spoons, hand towels, and hair clips. I also love little tinned and jarred items, napkins, and things I can use for dinner parties.
To me, hands are pure craftsmanship. My work as a chef focuses on mixing and kneading doughs and focaccias, rolling out fresh pasta, knotting challah, and pressing couscous through ancient sieves. Hands are also a gateway for stories; they prompt my memories of grandparents’ hands at work in the kitchen. My grandfather used to preserve olives under salt until they pruned, and my grandmother taught me how to preserve lemons. These are simple, traditional ways of eating and relate to both sides of my mixed heritage.
M.F.K. Fisher, who was an incredible food writer; reading her book changed my life. She used to take trains around France in the 1940s and go to restaurants by herself. She also had a host of lovers in different places and just traveled around. I’d also invite Claudia Rhoden, an Egyptian-Jewish cook who has written so much about Mediterranean food, and who has definitely inspired by dinner menu for A Culinary Quest. So, it’s me and some elderly ladies [laughing]. For balance, I’d throw in 22-year-old Jamie Oliver, when he first started out his career.
This story is part of a partnership between American Express and Design Hotels, who have joined forces to host a gastronomic series with three summer events across Germany. The collaboration aims to create value for our hotels, while providing guests with a memorable, next-level experience. To keep up to date with the next events, click here.
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