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Food

In Berlin, Oficina
creates an Atmospheric World

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Words Steph WadeImages Lucy DeverallDate 27 September 2024

In the final edition of a Amex Life ON: A Culinary Quest, we asked Amsterdam duo Oficina to create a multisensory experience for attendees. The result was a kaleidoscopic enchantment of sound, sight, smell, and, naturally, taste.

Zana Josipovic and Naiara Sabandar, the designer and chef who lead Oficina together, brought their expertise to Berlin to create a series of harmonious moments requiring the guests’ utmost presence. Beginning at the historic Wilmina Hotel, guests were welcomed into the third iteration of “A Culinary Quest” with an oshibori with soothing aromatics; an initial ritual to bring attention to their sense of touch. After a warm welcome drink in the verdant courtyard of Wilmina, the group ventured to nearby Kant Garagen Palast, a unique venue with a double spiral ramp that was once a multi-story car park, for the evening’s activation.

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Kant Garagen’s industrial interior, grand in scale, set the scene for a dynamic sculptural paper intervention, with diffused light emitting a gentle glow into the dining area. The cross-play between light, paper, and shadow imbued the space with a sense of mystery—here, Oficina guided guests through a sound experience and tea tasting session, explaining the rich history and tasting notes of Japanese tea. “It was a peaceful moment, giving everyone a chance to slow down and appreciate the harmony between the tea and the food,” says Zana.

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The dinner concept was to serve a compartmentalized buffet, where guests could help themselves and then sit at one long, shared table to enjoy the meal. To conceive of the menu, Oficina first looked at what was available from the organic agricultural farm Wilmars Gaerten in nearby Brandenburg, and then built the seven dishes around the flow of a kaiseki meal. Each dish in the buffet was served on a wooden rectangular platter, creating a gridded pattern similar to the structure of drying tea leaves, as well as a bento box. “We saw the communal aspect of this presentation as a reference to our canteen,” explains Naiara. “The guiding principles of the meal included ensuring the produce reflected the season, incorporating a type of sashimi, and ending the meal with seasoned rice. It was intimate, fun, and relaxed.”

“The guiding principles included ensuring the produce reflected the season, incorporating a type of sashimi, and ending the meal with seasoned rice.”

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A moment that stood out was the food-art cake installation: six layered cakes—three matcha and raspberry cakes, and three chocolate-houjicha cakes—on staggered plinths, encouraging guests to serve themselves, sometimes two or three times over. “The moment around the cake pillars was really nice and interactive,” Zana shares. “It felt special, just like the dinner itself—sharing a meal in that way created a unique connection.”

“We saw the communal aspect of this [buffet-style] presentation as a reference to our canteen.”

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After a cocktail reception with a live vinyl DJ set by Palo Santo Discos, and some dancing, drinks, and more dessert, the evening rounded out with guests peeling back to Wilmina, where a gift bag with tea and a cone of incense by Berlin-based boutique Ryoko was gifted to them the following morning. “Since smell and taste are intimately linked to memory, we hope this gesture strengthened guests’ memories of the event,” says Naiara.

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This story is part of a partnership between American Express®️© and Design Hotels, who joined forces to host a gastronomic series with three summer events across Germany. The collaboration aimed to create value for our hotels, while providing guests with a memorable, next-level experience. To read an overview on all three events, click here.

Featured Hotels

T Wilmina Berlin Germany

Wilmina

Berlin, Germany

Featured Hotels

T Wilmina Berlin Germany

Wilmina

Germany, Berlin
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